All cast-iron skillets are made the same way: by pouring molten-hot iron into a sand mold. Once the pan is cooled, it is cracked out of the casting before getting tumbled and sandblasted to smooth the surface. For an even smoother surface, some cast iron goes through an additional polishing step. Generally speaking, skillets that are sandblasted but not polished (like those made by Lodge) are more affordable, as they’re easier to produce. Comparatively, polished cast-iron skillets (like those from Field Company) carry higher price tags, though they provide you a smoother nonstick cooking experience. That said, a rough surface is not necessarily a bad thing. In fact, Byrn says she prefers cast iron with a little bit of texture for searing steaks and fish because she feels the protein releases more easily. And in the end, after many years of use, a rough surface will eventually grow smoother.
If you’re in the market for a versatile, all-purpose pan you can use for both cornbread and fried eggs, you want one with a main handle—and its construction is just as important as that of the skillet. Ideally, the handle should be medium length (so it fits in the oven easily) and comfortable to hold, providing you adequate leverage to lift and move the hefty skillet. More specifically, look for a handle that’s flat instead of round so you can easily grip it with a potholder or oven mitt without worrying about the skillet slipping. Whatever you do, steer clear of skillets with handles made from other materials, as they render the skillet less durable and oven-safe.
Because cast iron is heavy, many skillets also feature a smaller helper handle opposite the main handle. That way, you can hold onto the skillet with both hands and better maneuver the vessel. While this feature is beneficial to all users, it’s especially helpful for those with wrist or arm mobility issues.
Cast-iron skillets are commonly made with two pour spouts on opposite sides, which make for easy removal of bacon fat and other liquids. While pour spouts are certainly useful—especially for those who like to shallow- or deep-fry in their skillet—not all home cooks will find this feature entirely necessary. Oftentimes, if a skillet has a thin curved lip, it’s just as easy to dribble liquids over the side. And if you plan to bake in your cast-iron skillet frequently, consider those without pour spouts so you can make pies and cakes without the spout interfering with the shape of your baked goods.
You don’t need to shell out a ton of money to score quality cast iron—you can get an excellent skillet from Lodge for around $20. In general, cookware around this price tends to have rougher surfaces, thicker walls and a heavier weight. If you’re willing to spend a little more, though, a premium skillet will reward you (and look gorgeous on your stovetop). Carrying price tags between $100 and $250, higher-end skillets from brands like Field Company, Smithey and Butter Pat Industries typically feature lighter constructions and smoother surfaces, as they’re styled after vintage cast-iron cookware. Because it takes more time and money to cast, sand and polish a smoother, lighter piece, these skillets cost more.
Wondering whether it’s really worth it to upgrade when the price difference is so great? That’s up to you. If this is your first cast-iron skillet, consider buying a more affordable option. If you’re a longtime cast iron user, though, you may appreciate the polished surface and lighter weight of a new, artisanally made cast-iron skillet.
In 2002, Lodge became the first company to start selling seasoned cast-iron cookware. (Before this, cast iron was sold unseasoned, which meant you had to do the work of several rounds of seasoning at home before you could even start to cook.) These days, almost all cast-iron cookware is sold seasoned, sometimes described as “pre-seasoned.” This means you can cook in your new cast-iron skillet straight out of the box, though the seasoning will grow stronger and more nonstick with each use. When shopping for skillets, make sure the one you’re eyeing is pre-seasoned—it’ll make your life a lot easier.
Cast-iron skillets have long had a reputation for being difficult to clean and maintain. Among the myths: that you can’t wash them with soap and that seasoning them is a long, difficult process. While cast-iron skillets do require a tad more TLC than your average nonstick pan, by no means are these durable pans hard to care for. (Here are all the tools you need to maintain cast iron.) When it comes time to clean your skillet, wash it with warm water and a nonabrasive sponge or a chain-mail scrubber like The Ringer. Also, contrary to popular belief, it’s okay to use a little mild dish soap when necessary.
Just like wooden cutting boards, cast iron’s biggest enemy is water, as prolonged exposure can lead to rust. That means under no circumstances should cast iron ever go through the dishwasher or soak in the sink. If food refuses to release from your skillet’s surface, keep scrubbing away. Byrn also suggests filling the skillet with a little water and heating it on the stove, scraping away at the stubborn bits with a spatula until the food detaches.
Once your skillet is clean, dry it promptly. While you can wipe the entire skillet down with a paper towel or clean cloth, to ensure no moisture is left behind, it’s best to heat the skillet on the stove. This step also helps open the pores of the iron to better receive oil; once the skillet is dry, rub a little bit of your favorite neutral cooking oil or a special cast iron seasoning oil all over the skillet with a paper towel.
Put simply, “seasoning” refers to the hard, jet-black protective coating that lends your skillet its nonstick properties. To get a little more technical, this coating forms on the surface of a cast-iron skillet when oil bonds with iron through polymerization, a process that occurs only at high heat. “Once the oil is past its smoke point, the chains of fatty acids break into smaller chains, and those small chains become the polymers that bond with the iron,” Sitrin explains.
These days, most new cast-iron skillets come factory-seasoned (or “pre-seasoned”). If you care for your cast iron properly, there’s a decent chance you may never need to season your skillet yourself; you can maintain that initial seasoning simply by cooking with oil. If the seasoning starts to flake off or if rust develops, though, you will need to re-season your skillet. To do this, thoroughly wash your skillet, then heat it on the stove until it’s completely dry. Next, rub grapeseed or sunflower oil (or a special cast iron seasoning oil) all over the inside and outside of your skillet with a paper towel, wiping off any excess with another clean paper towel. Then place the skillet upside down in the center of your oven and turn the oven up to 450 degrees. Once the oven reaches its temperature, set a timer for 1 hour; once that time has passed, turn off the oven, letting your skillet stay put until it’s completely cool. If the damage is so deep that further seasoning is required, repeat this process.
“The more you season a skillet, the thicker the coating on the pan is going to get, and the more nonstick it’s going to get,” says Sitrin.
When it comes to kitchen tools, cookware rarely gets better with age. However, cast iron pans are seemingly a weird exception to this rule. Not only are they generally very affordable, legend has it that if you treat them right and cook with them regularly, not only will they last for a literal lifetime—if not longer!—they'll actually improve with use.
But is this legend true? Do cast iron pans actually get better with age? And why are the pans of our grandparents—the kind that people scour basements, yard sales, thrift stores, and antique shops for—considered so superior to most modern pans fresh from the factory?
Note: Cooking equipment made from cast iron comes in many shapes and sizes, including cornbread molds, deep pots used for making stews or baking bread, and griddles. For the purposes of this conversation we focused on cast iron skillets that do not have an enameled coating.
There are essentially three types of cast iron skillets: antiques, which date up until around the middle of the 20th century and include brands like Griswold and Wagner Ware; modern rough surface cast iron skillets made by companies such as
According to Dennis Powell, owner and founder of the cast iron manufacturer Butter Pat Industries, the reason antique cast iron pans are so desirable is because, quite simply, they're superior products. The manufacturing processes of yore resulted in pans that were thinner, lighter, and smoother, which is why antique pans are a delight to hold and use, and why the surface is less bumpy (and thus more non-stick) than you'll find with the more common cast iron pans of today.
Modern cast iron skillets are manufactured using molds made of sand, similar to how they were made a century ago. The difference is that in olden days foundries used molds that were much larger and employed a process that was significantly slower and more labor intensive, which simply isn't cost effective anymore. They also used a much finer grained sand than is used today, which produced smoother pans. But that fine-grained sand exposed foundry workers to lung-damaging silica dust, and workplace safety regulations put in place by OSHA have made fine-grained sand casting a thing of the past.
First, place the pan on an even surface and see if it wobbles. It's not uncommon for older skillets to experience warping, or for the bottom of the pan to start "dropping out" (bowing in the center). Also skip pans that have significant pitting, any type of cracking, or major rust damage. (Minor surface rust can be removed with steel wool, but major rust damage is a deal breaker.) If the price is within your budget, antique pans are definitely worth adding to your kitchen.
Modern cast iron skillets are not all created using the same process, nor do they perform the same.
The heavy pans with a rougher surface that most cooks are familiar with, such as those made by Lodge, are great for searing and braising. Iron is a great heat retainer, and once you get it good and hot it'll stay that way without much temperature fluctuation. However, that heat retention also means that skillets like these are not particularly well suited for cooking things that require fine temperature control. The rougher surface also means that food is more prone to sticking, and is the reason that Lodge sells their pans pre-seasoned. The seasoning helps with releasability, but these should not be considered non-stick pans.
1. Clean your cast iron pan soon after using it as opposed to letting it sit around for days with food or liquid inside. And contrary to popular belief, don't be afraid to use a little soap. Soap will break down new fats and oils, but won't damage established seasoning.
2. If your cast iron skillet has food stuck to the interior that can't be removed with a sponge, try using a stiff-bristled brush or a scratch-proof nylon or silicone pan scraper. Seasoning is hardy, but it can be removed if you scrub too hard or use an abrasive tool.
3. Dry your pan thoroughly after washing and use a paper towel to apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the interior and exterior of the pan, which will protect the pan from ambient moisture.
4. Don't leave a cast iron skillet on a lit flame or inside a hot oven for too long unless you're actually cooking with it, as prolonged heat exposure for an empty pan can damage it.
5. Cast iron is sturdy, but it isn't invulnerable. Treat your pans with care and if you're using an antique pan, avoid dropping it or clanging it around too much. Antique pans are thinner and more prone to cracking than modern pans.
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